Many gardeners start their tomato plants from seed, which allows them a much wider choice of tomato varieties than a garden center is likely to offer.

• Sow indoors about 6 weeks before the last expected frost date.
• Use a sterile germination mix and make sure the planting tray has holes for drainage.
• Moisten the growing mix and sow the seeds, covering lightly. (Note, with the high germination rate of AAS Winners, do NOT overplant. One seed per cell should be plenty with new seeds.)
• Keep the planted tray from drying out by misting or covering gently with plastic, and for maximum germination, warm the soil to 70 to 75 degrees F by placing the tray on a heat mat or other warm surface.
• Remove the cover when most of the seeds have sprouted and place in a warm sunny location.
• After they develop at least one set of true leaves, transplant to individual pots filled with soilless planting mix.
• After “resting” in low light for a day, young plants will need as much direct sunlight as possible—twelve hours a day is desirable—to keep them from becoming leggy. Supplemental grow lights are recommended.

 Hardening off

It is important to harden off tender plants before placing them in the garden by exposing them gradually to harsh outdoor conditions. Put young plants outside where they will receive morning sun but protection from wind and move them inside at night. Continue this for about a week, and then begin to leave them outside on nights when the temperature does not drop below 50 degrees F. After a week or two, the plants should be ready to transplant.

Planting

Tomatoes need as much direct sunlight as possible to produce the highest yield. Native to the tropics, tomatoes require warm temperatures for good growth, so wait until the nighttime air has warmed to about 55 degrees F before transplanting them. Planting tomatoes too soon will only slow them down.

If temperatures drop at night, keep young plants warm with a cloche or other protective cover. Tomatoes are not frost hardy and will die if exposed to 32 degrees F without protection.

Continue watering regularly for about two weeks until the plants are established. Throughout the growing season remember to water the plants deeply during dry periods for as long as they are setting fruit. Established tomato plants need at least one inch of precipitation per week.

 Plant Nutrition

Tomatoes need phosphorus, nitrogen, potash, and minor elements. Starting your plants off with an ample shovelful or two of compost will help the soil provide for their needs. Many gardeners also add synthetic or organic fertilizer. Some types, such as water-soluble granules or fish emulsion, can be applied when watering. There are also granular forms that are mixed with the soil before planting or used as a side dressing, and time-release fertilizers, which can be added to the soil at planting time. No matter what kind of fertilizer you use always follow the directions on the label.

Do not over-fertilize as this will cause lush plants with little fruit set. It’s best to select a fertilizer that contains more phosphorus (P) than nitrogen (N) or potassium (K) because phosphorus promotes flowering and fruit set.

Container Culture

Tomatoes can also be grown in tubs or large patio containers. For best results select a  variety with a compact or determinate habit. The container needs to be at least 12” deep, with drainage holes on the bottom. Use a sterile growing mix, keep the plants evenly watered, and place them in a sunny spot. Feed plants regularly with a water-soluble fertilizer, keeping in mind that nutrients will leach out of the pots faster than garden soil. During periods of hot weather, full-grown plants may need to be watered daily.

Harvest

For the best tomato flavor, allow the fruit to fully ripen on the plant. Wait until it is deep red, yellow, or whatever final color the tomato is to be because once removed from the vine, the supply of sugars is cut off. To harvest, gently twist the fruit so that the stem separates from the vine. Tomatoes are best kept at room temperature and will store on a kitchen counter for several days. It is absolutely unnecessary to place a ripe tomato in the refrigerator.

At the end of the season when frost is predicted, green tomatoes can be harvested and placed on a windowsill or counter. Most will gradually turn red and have some degree of tomato flavor. Placing unripe tomatoes in a paper bag will hasten the ripening process.